© 2000, 2010, 2012, 2018, 2019  D. Beach, Whispering Woodworks LLC

Table Construction Details Explained

I build my tables with very traditional methods - both joinery and wood selection are considered very carefully to provide a beautiful and lasting construction.  The table legs are turned or shaped from a single block of wood, the aprons are connected to the legs with solid mortise and tenon joints.  These joints are pinned with two hardwood pins to further increase the strength of this critical joint. 
Whispering Woodworks David S. Beach  Fine Custom Furniture and Reproductions Leesburg, VA 703-737-2126
These pieces are examples of the type of work I do. Let me know what I can build for you.
Each corner of the table is further reinforced with a solid wood corner block that is glued and screwed to the back of the aprons. 
The tops of my tables are constructed utilizing wide, grain matched boards. I offer 6 or 7 different edge profiles which you can select from. Using your choice of wood (Cherry, Maple, Tiger Maple,  Mahogany, Walnut and others), I typically make the tops 1 - 1 1/8" thick. I run a decorative bead around the lower edge of the table aprons and use solid wood for all parts of the table.

Different options are available depending on the shape of the top, and the desired look. One of the most

traditional and desirable features of a rectangular table are breadboard ends.

(There is a good picture and description of breadboard ends in the section - Breadboards and Company Boards

Explained.) 

The breadboard ends feature a special joint which allows natural 

movement of the table top due to changes in humidity, while

keeping the top perfectly flat and covering the end grain.  Other

table shapes (round or elliptical do not allow for the use of

breadboards.)

If it is desired to be able to increase the seating capacity, there are several methods. Drop leaf tables can be

designed in a wide range of styles and sizes to accommodate a variety of seating options - this is a very traditional

and practical approach to increasing the seating capacity. 

Another traditional method is the use of company boards. The boards are added to the end of the table and can

vary in width from 12 to 24" .  The boards slide into slots in the apron and are well supported when in place.  The

company boards have the advantage of being significantly less costly than the center leafs, and the table can be

built much stronger since the aprons are not cut in the center. 

(There is an excellent discussion on  company boards in the section Breadboards and Company Boards Explained.)

The remaining option is to use an extension  mechanism and add leafs to the center of the table.  This is a good

way to add extra space, but is not entirely traditional.  If you choose this method, one of the features I add is to

put a section of the apron on each of the leafs so that the apron is still continuous with the leafs in place.  All of

these methods work very well to increase the size of the table.

One thing that you will quickly notice about my table tops - visible in detail on several of the farm tables featured

on my website - is that I typically use 3 very wide boards for the entire top.  This is almost impossible to find these

days and makes a very dramatic statement - the grain, color and figure matching is excellent.

When the top is near completion, I hand plane and scrape the top before finishing to bring out the best grain

features and natural highlights. I offer a variety of finishing options - I can do a natural finish which will age

beautifully, or use a dye stain to give the table an aged look.  I can provide light distressing for a country look.  My

traditional finish for a dining table is a very durable hand rubbed varnish.  All of my pieces are rubbed out by hand

and waxed to a satin finish.

This photo shows company boards being installed on the end of a shaker table. 
© 2000, 2010, 2012, 2018, 2019  D. Beach, Whispering Woodworks LLC

Table Construction Details

Explained

I build my tables with very traditional methods - both joinery and wood selection are considered very carefully to provide a beautiful and lasting construction.  The table legs are turned or shaped from a single block of wood, the aprons are connected to the legs with solid mortise and tenon joints.  These joints are pinned with two hardwood pins to further increase the strength of this critical joint. 
Whispering Woodworks David S. Beach  Fine Custom Furniture and Reproductions Leesburg, VA 703-737-2126
These pieces are examples of the type of work I do. Let me know what I can build for you.
Each corner of the table is further reinforced with a solid wood corner block that is glued and screwed to the back of the aprons. 
The tops of my tables are constructed utilizing wide, grain matched boards. I offer 6 or 7 different edge profiles which you can select from. Using your choice of wood (Cherry, Maple, Tiger Maple,  Mahogany, Walnut and others), I typically make the tops 1 - 1 1/8" thick. I run a decorative bead around the lower edge of the table aprons and use solid wood for all parts of the table.

Different options are available depending on the shape of

the top, and the desired look. One of the most traditional

and desirable features of a rectangular table are

breadboard ends.

(There is a good picture and description of breadboard

ends in the section - Breadboards and Company Boards

Explained.) 

The breadboard ends feature a special joint which allows

natural  movement of the table top due to changes in

humidity, while keeping the top perfectly flat and covering

the end grain.  Other table shapes (round or elliptical do

not allow for the use of breadboards.)

If it is desired to be able to increase the seating capacity,

there are several methods. Drop leaf tables can be

designed in a wide range of styles and sizes to

accommodate a variety of seating options - this is a very

traditional and practical approach to increasing the seating

capacity. 

Another traditional method is the use of company boards.

The boards are added to the end of the table and can vary

in width from 12 to 24" .  The boards slide into slots in the

apron and are well supported when in place.  The

company boards have the advantage of being significantly

less costly than the center leafs, and the table can be built

much stronger since the aprons are not cut in the center. 

(There is an excellent discussion on  company boards in

the section Breadboards and Company Boards Explained.)

The remaining option is to use an extension  mechanism

and add leafs to the center of the table.  This is a good way

to add extra space, but is not entirely traditional.  If you

choose this method, one of the features I add is to put a

section of the apron on each of the leafs so that the apron is

still continuous with the leafs in place.  All of these methods

work very well to increase the size of the table.

One thing that you will quickly notice about my table tops -

visible in detail on several of the farm tables featured on my

website - is that I typically use 3 very wide boards for the

entire top.  This is almost impossible to find these days and

makes a very dramatic statement - the grain, color and

figure matching is excellent.

When the top is near completion, I hand plane and scrape

the top before finishing to bring out the best grain

features and natural highlights. I offer a variety of finishing

options - I can do a natural finish which will age

beautifully, or use a dye stain to give the table an aged

look.  I can provide light distressing for a country look.  My

traditional finish for a dining table is a very durable hand

rubbed varnish.  All of my pieces are rubbed out by hand

and waxed to a satin finish.

This photo shows company boards being installed on the end of a shaker table.